Briouche*
+ a recipe for an olive oil and whole wheat spelt brioche
When I arrived in France in winter 2021, my husband was waiting for me at the airport with a warm brioche and a bag of chouquettes. I know, it may sound a little predictable, but after two connecting flights and a long struggle with my fear of flying, it was exactly what I needed. I was already familiar with brioche, as I discussed in my article about the French influence on Iranian pastries, but biting into a warm and freshly baked one was unexpectedly comforting. Brioche sits somewhere between bread and cake, rich and delicate at the same time. Its only real flaw is its short window of perfection. Because of its high butter content, it needs to be eaten fresh or gently reheated, otherwise it quickly loses its softness and depth, thus becoming dry and muted.
I turned to my Larousse Gastronomique book to look more closely at this pillowy bread. One of the first things that stood out was that brioche is classified as a cake rather than a bread. This encyclopedia defines it as “a cake made with a starter, often shaped like a crown or a ball topped with a head (brioche à la tête).” According to some etymologists, the word brioche comes from the old term bris, combined with hocher meaning “to stir,” though this explanation is generally considered speculative. Other authors, including Alexandre Dumas, suggest a different origin, linking the name to the region of Brie, known for its cheese, and propose that brioche was originally made with it.
Although this origin is not mentioned in Larousse Gastronomique, another, more plausible explanation is often cited in France. According to this theory, the word comes from the old Norman verb brier, meaning “to knead.” La brie referred to the wooden bar once used to work brioche dough, while the suffix -oche designated the finished product. Together, they formed the word brioche. This explanation makes sense, since the Normandy region is known for the quality of its butter and dairy products, alongside Brittany in France.
Beyond the many regional variations and names brioches takes across France (Brioche Nanterre, Brioche Parisienne, Gâteau battu, Tarte tropézienne, etc.), it also carries a ceremonial dimension known as la danse de la brioche. This traditional folk dance originates from the Vendée region of western France and is associated with weddings and communal celebrations, where it is still practiced today.
The ritual centers on an oversized brioche, round or crown-shaped, simply and elegantly decorated, and weighing sometimes up to 20 kilograms. During the ceremony, the bride and groom or other designated participants carry the brioche on a wooden structure while performing polka-like steps, as other guests dance around them and pass beneath the brioche. At the end of the dance, the brioche is cut and shared. As with the bread itself, each baker has its special recipe; some scent the dough with orange blossom water, while others add a small amount of eau-de-vie, French style fruit alcohol.
There is also an expression in French, “Faire une brioche!”, which literally means “to make a brioche” and refers to doing something wrong or mischievous. According to Larousse Gastronomique, the origin of this expression comes from the orchestra of the Paris Opera, where musicians would fine those who made mistakes and played out of harmony, by contributing to a collection, which was then used to buy a brioche for everyone to enjoy during their break time.
Even though I love a pure butter brioche, I wanted to create a recipe that incorporates some whole wheat flour and olive oil, for a more pronounced flavor and a more tender texture that keeps slightly better than a 100% butter brioche.
I hope you enjoy this recipe.
*Briouche is how I pronounce the word brioche with my accent. It kind of stayed with us, so I named it that.
The Recipe
Olive Oil and Whole Wheat Spelt Brioche
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Ingredients
160 grams bread flour
65 grams whole wheat spelt flour (T150)
4 grams instant yeast
1 medium egg
4 grams salt
15 grams sugar
120 grams whole milk*
60 grams butter
40 grams extra virgin olive oil
1 egg yolk + a splash of cream or milk, for the egg wash
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*Brioche dough can be challenging to handle. If you don’t feel comfortable working with high-hydration doughs, reduce the milk by 20 grams to make it easier to work with.
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This recipe will give you one loaf of brioche, or 6 generous brioche buns
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Method
In the bowl of a stand mixer, combine the bread flour, whole wheat spelt flour, instant yeast, sugar, and salt.
Add the egg and milk, mixing just until the dough comes together. Cover the bowl with a damp cloth and let it rest, allowing the flours to fully absorb the liquid.
Knead the dough for about five minutes, or until it reaches medium strength. The dough should stretch slightly but remain somewhat fragile.
Incorporate the butter one teaspoon at a time. Once all the butter is incorporated, slowly pour the olive oil into a corner of the dough. The dough may appear to separate initially, but this is normal. Continue kneading until the gluten is fully developed and the dough can be stretched thin without tearing.
Cover the dough and set it aside for one hour. After resting, transfer the dough to the refrigerator and leave it overnight.
The next day, when ready to bake, divide the dough into eight equal pieces. Roll each piece into a ball using the palms of your hands on a work surface, and place them in a loaf pan. Cover and let the dough proof for about two hours, or until it becomes very puffy. If your kitchen is cold, this may take slightly longer.
Preheat the oven to 175°C (fan-forced). Brush the dough with egg wash and bake for approximately 25-35 minutes, or until golden brown.
Note
Several readers have asked for the recipe for the spinach and crème fraîche buns I shared on my Substack Notes. I did not measure the ingredients precisely, but I used the same brioche bun dough, divided into six portions.
While the buns are proofing, sauté a shallot in olive oil until translucent. Add two finely grated garlic cloves and 6–7 frozen spinach cubes, stirring until the spinach thaws and most of the liquid evaporates. Remove from heat and stir in crème fraîche and smoked sea salt.
Using your oiled finger, make an indentation in the middle of each bun and fill it with the spinach mixture. Brush the buns with egg wash and sprinkle with sesame or poppy seeds. Bake for 16–20 minutes, then top with crumbled feta cheese and a pinch of sumac before serving.
Noosh-e-Jaan, may it nourish your soul. x
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The spinach brioche buns look amazing! And then with feta on top. Perfect! 👌🏽
What a wonderful post! Loved every second of reading it!